Up the West Coast

So I’m now making my way fairly quickly back to Auckland. At this stage I’m wishing I had decided to fly from Christchurch to Auckland but I’m taking the train instead from Wellington to Auckland which I booked at the start of my time in New Zealand so i’m only flying from Christchurch to Wellington.

First I wanted to see the West Coast so I caught the bus up from Queenstown to Franz Josef glacier. This was uneventful except for the gorgeous scenery until 11am when we stopped for an early lunch and I had a “mutton” pie and water and the pie was literally the worst I’d ever eaten and reminded me of school dinners.

After that we went through some rainforest as we headed north which contained lots of beech trees, the whole area was what I thought northern Argentina would be like but obviously colder. At 12 noon we went to see a waterfall called the Thunder Falls and we got a new driver called George who was great fun. He discussed the insane rainfall on the west coast of New Zealand (the next land mass at this latitude is South America which is a *long* way off.) by talking about the rainfall and how his wife measured the rainfall in a recent afternoon and their had been 45cm of rain between noon and 6pm. Overall they have 6 to 9 metres of rain a year.

After the second lunch stop at 2pm at a salmon farm I had some lunch and saw the salmon swimming below us. To me it looked like seeing a battery hen farm which isn’t really what you want to think about. After this we got to Franz Josef at 4pm.

I’m heading out onto the glacier and seeing what there is to do in town and I’ll let you know more once I get to Toyko on Sunday where they have seen the light of having free WiFi available.

Queenstown and Milford Sound part 2

Continued from part 1

So at 4pm on Friday after quite a few viewing stops we arrived at Milford Sound, as it was cloudy we didn’t get much of a view however. Then we got on the boat and headed into the sound itself which was seriously stunning to see. Actually the sound itself is stunning whatever the weather and you don’t need sunny weather to experience it properly. First we sailed up the fjord (actually Milford Sound is a fjord not a sound as it’s a sea-flooded glacial valley rather than a sea-flooded river valley) past a peak called Mitre mountain as it looks like a Bishops mitre. However amusingly the Maori name for it translated into English calls it the male symbol which is very amusing. The obvious solution is that the mitre is supposed to represent the male symbol as well.

Then we sailed up the fjord to near to the entrence before returning to the bay were we were going to spend the night, there is only one place that this can happen as that is the only place were the water isn’t too deep for a mooring to be placed – even then the moorings go 80m down. But this depth allows you to get really close to the waterfalls pouring down the cliff faces.

Once we moored we headed out on a smaller boat to get close to the shore which allowed us to see small penguins on the shore and swimming in the water where they were very graceful. There was also the option to go swimming instead but as the water was glacial it was extremely cold so I didn’t do that. After this we returned to the boat and had a great 3 course lamb dinner and I chatted with my shipmates before bedtime.

In the morning I got up at 6.30am and had a shower as there were only 6 showers on the boat with 30 people on board I expected a queue – the last place I went with such a ratio was New York which had 2 showers for 30 beds but there people got up between 7am and midday so it worked better – here people all got up between 6.30am and 7am.

That day it was bright and sunny in the fjord so we got a great look at the surrounding mountains as we headed up the fjord and back out to the sea. Then we headed back up the valley to Te Ahau which was much prettier than the previous day as it was bright and sunny. It was surprising how few people stayed on the bus as most people even on the backpacker boat they all flew back which cost over £100 per person. After getting back to Te Ahau I went on another tour to see glowworms. This was a pretty cool tour and there were lots of glowworms around. The only problem was the German speaking tourists with us who were incapable of being quiet even though we were asked. I ended up telling the 60 year old tourist next to me to shutup at one point which must have been embarrassing for her. But they should have known better at their age. After getting back to my hostel I had a walk along the lakeside for a couple of hours and then on Sunday I went back to Queenstown.

Once back in Queenstown I had a delicious sandwich before getting the last seat on the 2pm shotover jet. This was a jetboat which went up and down the shotover river getting incredibly close to the rocks on either side. I thoroughly enjoyed it too. The only problem was the overpriced photo packs.

After that I headed up the gondola above Queenstown to get the view over Queenstown and to go on the life there. It was also good and after the first run I was racing lining the corners (this is where you enter the corner on the outside and pass on the far inside of the corner in the middle which let’s you go as fast as possible around the corner.) I did get a little cocky and managed to crash out on the fourth run. I didn’t get hurt though.

In the evening I had a curry and watched the last samarai at the hostel before trying to arrange insurance for a skydive which meant I went to the Internet cafe 3 times today as they are only open on UK daytime hours. Unfortunately I was unable to get insurance and the weather was awful on Monday so I skipped the skydive and went to Arrowtown which had an OK museum and used up a fair part of the day. There is little to do in Queenstown when the weather is bad – it’s one of the disadvantages of the town. I did have time to buy some souviners from a very friendly store called Aotea near Real Journeys. They are probably the friendliest souvinier shop I have ever been to. In the evening I then watched “forgetting Sarah Marshall” in which Russel Brand starred (Russel Brand is a British comedian whose main claim to fame is that he’s slept with Kate Moss et al and according to himself he has a big penis.) and also actually managed to be funny. It was an impressive feat for a man who is usually as funny as a brick wall (maybe I’m just less jealous or something though…).

On Tuesday I got up early to go to Franc Josef Glacier and headed off out of Queenstown.